By Clair Wenzel
Miles of narrow dirt trails wind along the coast past the olive and lemon trees. As you make your way past, the air is thick with the smell of lush vegetation and lingering ocean spray. Countless steps carved into the earth lead you up and up into the vineyards. Suddenly, through a break in the trees, you peer down on the town you left not long ago. With this perspective emerges a new respect for the beauty of Vernazza. The houses appear like a crayon box of pastels, stacked one on top of the other, seeming to lean on each other for support. The tiny turquoise harbor is guarded by a line of muscular boulders, jutting out into the sea. They hold fast as surging waves crash up in a vain attempt to break through. This is European nature at its best offering tourists villages, oceans, sky and mountains rather than cities monuments and duomos. The Cinque Terre is a refreshing change of scenery from the maze of museums. Here, your time is spent outdoors, working your way down the coast and breathing in the natural beauty of the Northwest coast of Italy.
When my parents decided to visit me in Italy, I saw Cinque Terre as an ideal window to share a relaxing weekend with them.
The Cinque Terre are a group of five villages connected by a system of hiking trails that hug the coast while weaving in and out of lush foliage. The laidback attitude of the locals, the beauty of the landscape and just a pinch of pesto made sure that Cinque Terre did not disappoint.
The five towns are all connected, but it is important to select one as a home base to sleep, eat, and plan your hikes. Each of the five towns encompasses a distinct personality. Monterosso features a large beach the stretches across the village. Vernazza is the most touristy of the towns, yet is perhaps the most beautiful. Corniglia has the highest elevation and breathtaking ocean views. Manarola feels like a fishing town and has lots of opportunities to explore. And finally, Riomaggiore is the least touristy and most in tune with local customs. We settled on Vernazza as our base town. Its central location and easily accessible dramatic hilltop sights sealed the deal. The charming village is centered around one main road that runs from the train station to the harbor. Because of this, it is the easiest to navigate. From the train station we descended the stairs, continued walking along the main road and within minutes, we saw the harbor.
Our arrival happened to fall within the off-season. While many may argue it is essential to visit Cinque Terre a little later in the year when it is warmer, the lack of crowds had its advantages, including a wide selection of places to stay. In addition, we gained the ability to investigate several places and even barter for our desired price. Extra leverage may be gained by booking more than one night at a time, or if you are traveling with a large group. Many locals profit by renting apartments or rooms to tourists. They are a great value and provide all the essentials. We settled on renting from Rosa, whom we had read about in a Rick Steves travel book and her price fit the bill. We paid 75 euros a night for the three of us. Her apartment was perched three stories above the main road, midway between the train station and the harbor. The antique door was dusted with a hint of wintergreen, which stood in stark contrast to the vibrant peach hue of the building. Examining the panel beside the door, I pushed the button that read “Rosa’s rooms.”
Before I could remove my finger from the buzzer, a petite elderly woman opened her purple shutters several stories above us. “Buon Giorno!” she said looking down at us. A native Vernazza resident, Rosa is petite in stature and as delicate as the antique lace shawl she had draped across her shoulders. After hearing of our interest in a room, she wasted no time, making her way down to the front door to escort us to our apartment. We followed Rosa up 62 steps, which slowed me down as I toted my overstuffed travel backpack. Rosa took each step with great care so as to not misstep and bowl my parents and me over back down to the street. At the top, we entered the modest apartment. It had a bathroom with a small water heater, small kitchen with minimal appliances, a double bed with a pull out couch in the next room where I would sleep, and a quaint bedroom adorned in lace with a double bed for my parents. The best feature of the apartment was the spacious outdoor patio located off the bedroom with a table and three chairs that looked out at freshly laundered undergarments hanging from the line directly next to our balcony. We could peer past the shutters across the alley and witness a woman hard at work preparing a meal in her kitchen. Living in an apartment, at eye level with the residents of Vernazza, provided an opportunity to blend in.
The main event while visiting Cinque Terre is experiencing all five towns through the hike along the coast. The Cinque Terre paths were recently established as a national park. This is to ensure the trails are maintained and protected from environmental harm. However, because of this, hikers must pay fees to hike the trails. A one-day pass costs five euros, and a two-day pass eight. With the Cinque Terre Pass, you get a map as well as unlimited use of shuttle buses to and from each town. You may purchase the card at train stations or the national park offices. Keep in mind, you shouldn’t need more than two days to hike Cinque Terre. Typically the hike between all cinque towns takes about four to five hours. The trails are clearly marked with red and white stripes, which guide hikers through winding alleyways in the towns as well as lead you to some of the best photo opportunities in all of Italy along the coasts.
The hike from Vernazza to Monterosso proved the most challenging. However, it was also the most rewarding. As you follow the paths that were originally intended to allow access to the hillside vineyards and olive groves, you gain a new respect for the workers who labored to construct the walkways. The ocean views demand your attention. It’s difficult to maintain a constant pace, as you constantly find yourself stopping and grabbing your camera to capture the image, in hopes you will be able to remember it forever. Strategically placed picnic benches invite hikers to rest their feet while taking in the spectacular ocean views.
Emerging from the trails, we found ourselves in the beach town of Monterosso. The town was seemingly closed for the winter. However, after a short walk we encountered a group of locals. Scattered about in the street, a group of five slender Italian boys were passing an under inflated soccer ball back and forth. Their fathers were standing watch with a cold beer in hand. Before my mom and I had a say, my father was making his way to the source of the beer and the apparent neighborhood hangout. Ironically named, The American Bar is the place where locals choose to grab lunch in Monterosso. With walls plastered with American movie posters and Aerosmith playing from the stereo in the corner, we had to commend the owners for their tastes. The sandwiches we ordered were made with fresh foccacia bread, mozzarella cheese, tomato, and of course, fresh pesto. After being grilled to melted perfection, the sandwiches (four euro each) really hit the spot. We were ready to continue our hike to the other three towns.
Cinque Terre is an escape from urban Italy. No need for museums or monuments. The Cinque Terre is a piece of art in itself, with its dramatic hilltop views and quaint villages always on display for those fortunate enough to see them.
Clair Wenzel, a University of Kansas journalism student from Minneapolis, studied in the CIMBA undergraduate program in spring, 2009.
Miles of narrow dirt trails wind along the coast past the olive and lemon trees. As you make your way past, the air is thick with the smell of lush vegetation and lingering ocean spray. Countless steps carved into the earth lead you up and up into the vineyards. Suddenly, through a break in the trees, you peer down on the town you left not long ago. With this perspective emerges a new respect for the beauty of Vernazza. The houses appear like a crayon box of pastels, stacked one on top of the other, seeming to lean on each other for support. The tiny turquoise harbor is guarded by a line of muscular boulders, jutting out into the sea. They hold fast as surging waves crash up in a vain attempt to break through. This is European nature at its best offering tourists villages, oceans, sky and mountains rather than cities monuments and duomos. The Cinque Terre is a refreshing change of scenery from the maze of museums. Here, your time is spent outdoors, working your way down the coast and breathing in the natural beauty of the Northwest coast of Italy.
When my parents decided to visit me in Italy, I saw Cinque Terre as an ideal window to share a relaxing weekend with them.
The Cinque Terre are a group of five villages connected by a system of hiking trails that hug the coast while weaving in and out of lush foliage. The laidback attitude of the locals, the beauty of the landscape and just a pinch of pesto made sure that Cinque Terre did not disappoint.
The five towns are all connected, but it is important to select one as a home base to sleep, eat, and plan your hikes. Each of the five towns encompasses a distinct personality. Monterosso features a large beach the stretches across the village. Vernazza is the most touristy of the towns, yet is perhaps the most beautiful. Corniglia has the highest elevation and breathtaking ocean views. Manarola feels like a fishing town and has lots of opportunities to explore. And finally, Riomaggiore is the least touristy and most in tune with local customs. We settled on Vernazza as our base town. Its central location and easily accessible dramatic hilltop sights sealed the deal. The charming village is centered around one main road that runs from the train station to the harbor. Because of this, it is the easiest to navigate. From the train station we descended the stairs, continued walking along the main road and within minutes, we saw the harbor.
Our arrival happened to fall within the off-season. While many may argue it is essential to visit Cinque Terre a little later in the year when it is warmer, the lack of crowds had its advantages, including a wide selection of places to stay. In addition, we gained the ability to investigate several places and even barter for our desired price. Extra leverage may be gained by booking more than one night at a time, or if you are traveling with a large group. Many locals profit by renting apartments or rooms to tourists. They are a great value and provide all the essentials. We settled on renting from Rosa, whom we had read about in a Rick Steves travel book and her price fit the bill. We paid 75 euros a night for the three of us. Her apartment was perched three stories above the main road, midway between the train station and the harbor. The antique door was dusted with a hint of wintergreen, which stood in stark contrast to the vibrant peach hue of the building. Examining the panel beside the door, I pushed the button that read “Rosa’s rooms.”
Before I could remove my finger from the buzzer, a petite elderly woman opened her purple shutters several stories above us. “Buon Giorno!” she said looking down at us. A native Vernazza resident, Rosa is petite in stature and as delicate as the antique lace shawl she had draped across her shoulders. After hearing of our interest in a room, she wasted no time, making her way down to the front door to escort us to our apartment. We followed Rosa up 62 steps, which slowed me down as I toted my overstuffed travel backpack. Rosa took each step with great care so as to not misstep and bowl my parents and me over back down to the street. At the top, we entered the modest apartment. It had a bathroom with a small water heater, small kitchen with minimal appliances, a double bed with a pull out couch in the next room where I would sleep, and a quaint bedroom adorned in lace with a double bed for my parents. The best feature of the apartment was the spacious outdoor patio located off the bedroom with a table and three chairs that looked out at freshly laundered undergarments hanging from the line directly next to our balcony. We could peer past the shutters across the alley and witness a woman hard at work preparing a meal in her kitchen. Living in an apartment, at eye level with the residents of Vernazza, provided an opportunity to blend in.
The main event while visiting Cinque Terre is experiencing all five towns through the hike along the coast. The Cinque Terre paths were recently established as a national park. This is to ensure the trails are maintained and protected from environmental harm. However, because of this, hikers must pay fees to hike the trails. A one-day pass costs five euros, and a two-day pass eight. With the Cinque Terre Pass, you get a map as well as unlimited use of shuttle buses to and from each town. You may purchase the card at train stations or the national park offices. Keep in mind, you shouldn’t need more than two days to hike Cinque Terre. Typically the hike between all cinque towns takes about four to five hours. The trails are clearly marked with red and white stripes, which guide hikers through winding alleyways in the towns as well as lead you to some of the best photo opportunities in all of Italy along the coasts.
The hike from Vernazza to Monterosso proved the most challenging. However, it was also the most rewarding. As you follow the paths that were originally intended to allow access to the hillside vineyards and olive groves, you gain a new respect for the workers who labored to construct the walkways. The ocean views demand your attention. It’s difficult to maintain a constant pace, as you constantly find yourself stopping and grabbing your camera to capture the image, in hopes you will be able to remember it forever. Strategically placed picnic benches invite hikers to rest their feet while taking in the spectacular ocean views.
Emerging from the trails, we found ourselves in the beach town of Monterosso. The town was seemingly closed for the winter. However, after a short walk we encountered a group of locals. Scattered about in the street, a group of five slender Italian boys were passing an under inflated soccer ball back and forth. Their fathers were standing watch with a cold beer in hand. Before my mom and I had a say, my father was making his way to the source of the beer and the apparent neighborhood hangout. Ironically named, The American Bar is the place where locals choose to grab lunch in Monterosso. With walls plastered with American movie posters and Aerosmith playing from the stereo in the corner, we had to commend the owners for their tastes. The sandwiches we ordered were made with fresh foccacia bread, mozzarella cheese, tomato, and of course, fresh pesto. After being grilled to melted perfection, the sandwiches (four euro each) really hit the spot. We were ready to continue our hike to the other three towns.
Cinque Terre is an escape from urban Italy. No need for museums or monuments. The Cinque Terre is a piece of art in itself, with its dramatic hilltop views and quaint villages always on display for those fortunate enough to see them.
Clair Wenzel, a University of Kansas journalism student from Minneapolis, studied in the CIMBA undergraduate program in spring, 2009.
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