By Megan Turner
On our search for the Tuscan sun, Megan and I did not let the persistent drizzle stop our journey. We decided to set out for a seemingly ironic day Under the Tuscan Rain. Little did we know that the rain (and Rick Steves) would lead us to the warmth that exists within the cuisine and culture of Cortona, even when the sun is nowhere in sight.
With only a few local restaurants open for lunch at noon, Megan and I stumbled across one that we had recognized, a ristorante that offered a 5 percent discount if we brought in our faithful travel companion’s book. Without hesitation, we stepped inside accompanied by Rick Steves.
The stairs led us down into the building, which was clearly an old medieval cellar. The stone walls and crisp air created a dark, yet inviting atmosphere. The simple tables were adorned with candlelight and racks of wine covered the bare walls. Romano, the owner of the restaurant, rounded the corner. His salt and pepper hair was slicked back and he wore slacks paired with a button up shirt and a vest that fit snugly around his belly.
As the realization set in, Romano’s joy illuminated the room. He began dancing around the store in excitement, yelling, “Agostina, Francesca!” His daughter and wife, the chef, came running from the kitchen. With pride shining through his smile, Romano showed his wife and daughter the book. It was like watching an Olympic medalist show off a gold medal.
Just as we finished the last bite, Francesca picked up our plates with Romano right behind her presenting us with our second pasta, homemade chestnut flour Ravioli in a porcini mushroom sauce. The slightly chewy, al dente pasta encased a creamy mixture of ricotta cheese that paired perfectly with the mushrooms. Thinking the meal was over, we scraped the plate clean.
Before we could look up, a smiling Romano held the secondi, or main dish, beef filet cooked in Chianti wine paired with sautéed potatoes and seasoned with fresh rosemary.
He placed our dishes down and waited expectantly as we took our first bite. When we looked up, mouths full, to give him the head nod of approval, he smiled and pinched our cheeks. Although he spoke little English, the language barrier was not a problem. The only words necessary for Megan and I to mutter were, “Romano! Molto Bene!”
With a double edged sword of hope, hoping it was almost done because we were so full, yet wanting more because it tasted so good, we were excited to see the next course was dessert. Romano sliced warm chocolate chip biscotti and slid it onto our place mats to dip in a little cup of espresso.
When we realized that three hours had passed, we decided it was time to head back to reality. A little nervous at how much this meal would cost, we worked our way over to the bar to pay. Romano rushed over and said, “For you girls,” he then scribbled on a slip of paper 20 euros. We each handed him a ten, promised to tell everyone of our experience and received a big bear hug from Romano with a kiss on each cheek and a pinch for good measure.
As we walked outside, the rain jolted us back into reality. We strolled silently through the narrow street and soaked in our experience. It suddenly became clear that Cortona relied on more than its Tuscan Sun. Locals, like Romano and his family, make sure that Cortona glows year round, rain or shine.
Via Ghibellina 17
Cortona (AR)
Te. 0575 606039
info@labucaccia.it
On our search for the Tuscan sun, Megan and I did not let the persistent drizzle stop our journey. We decided to set out for a seemingly ironic day Under the Tuscan Rain. Little did we know that the rain (and Rick Steves) would lead us to the warmth that exists within the cuisine and culture of Cortona, even when the sun is nowhere in sight.
Sharing one umbrella, we huddled under an overhang to see what attraction Rick would lead us to first. With nearly every activity either a two-mile walk outside of Cortona or closed since it was Sunday, we had to come up with an alternative. What is there to do in a small Tuscan town on a Sunday in the rain? As our stomachs grumbled, the answer seemed apparent. Eat.
With only a few local restaurants open for lunch at noon, Megan and I stumbled across one that we had recognized, a ristorante that offered a 5 percent discount if we brought in our faithful travel companion’s book. Without hesitation, we stepped inside accompanied by Rick Steves.
The stairs led us down into the building, which was clearly an old medieval cellar. The stone walls and crisp air created a dark, yet inviting atmosphere. The simple tables were adorned with candlelight and racks of wine covered the bare walls. Romano, the owner of the restaurant, rounded the corner. His salt and pepper hair was slicked back and he wore slacks paired with a button up shirt and a vest that fit snugly around his belly.
Unsure if he spoke English, we quickly fumbled for the Rick Steves book and pointed to Romano then to the book. He looked puzzled until we showed him the entry titled, Ristorante La Buccicia.
As the realization set in, Romano’s joy illuminated the room. He began dancing around the store in excitement, yelling, “Agostina, Francesca!” His daughter and wife, the chef, came running from the kitchen. With pride shining through his smile, Romano showed his wife and daughter the book. It was like watching an Olympic medalist show off a gold medal.
He motioned for us to sit down in the corner, pulling out our chairs then tucking us into the table. Looking at the menu, I asked about the pasta dishes. He snatched the menus back and exclaimed, “I bring you a taste of my favorite dishes.”
I hadn’t realized by using the plural word of dishes, he was about to provide us a traditional Italian meal. First came the antipasti, a variety of sliced meats and fresh bread. The first primi was Bucaccia-style homemade nastrine pasta in a spicy pecorino-cheese sauce.
Just as we finished the last bite, Francesca picked up our plates with Romano right behind her presenting us with our second pasta, homemade chestnut flour Ravioli in a porcini mushroom sauce. The slightly chewy, al dente pasta encased a creamy mixture of ricotta cheese that paired perfectly with the mushrooms. Thinking the meal was over, we scraped the plate clean.Before we could look up, a smiling Romano held the secondi, or main dish, beef filet cooked in Chianti wine paired with sautéed potatoes and seasoned with fresh rosemary.
He placed our dishes down and waited expectantly as we took our first bite. When we looked up, mouths full, to give him the head nod of approval, he smiled and pinched our cheeks. Although he spoke little English, the language barrier was not a problem. The only words necessary for Megan and I to mutter were, “Romano! Molto Bene!” With a double edged sword of hope, hoping it was almost done because we were so full, yet wanting more because it tasted so good, we were excited to see the next course was dessert. Romano sliced warm chocolate chip biscotti and slid it onto our place mats to dip in a little cup of espresso.
When we realized that three hours had passed, we decided it was time to head back to reality. A little nervous at how much this meal would cost, we worked our way over to the bar to pay. Romano rushed over and said, “For you girls,” he then scribbled on a slip of paper 20 euros. We each handed him a ten, promised to tell everyone of our experience and received a big bear hug from Romano with a kiss on each cheek and a pinch for good measure.
As we walked outside, the rain jolted us back into reality. We strolled silently through the narrow street and soaked in our experience. It suddenly became clear that Cortona relied on more than its Tuscan Sun. Locals, like Romano and his family, make sure that Cortona glows year round, rain or shine.
Megan Turner, University of Kansas journalism student, studied in the CIMBA undergraduate program in spring, 2009.
Cooking Lessons:
Via Ghibellina 17
Cortona (AR)
Te. 0575 606039
info@labucaccia.it
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